Rome certainly is a city of beauty and each neighbourhood has its own aesthetic, from its rough-around-the edges narrow streets to the wide, symmetrical avenues which make up some of Rome’s best shopping streets. There’s a different feel altogether at the market squares, and again at the vast Piazza del Popolo. Rome exists with so many facets, but all come together to make one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
This guide focuses on a selection of places that I discovered on my second trip to Rome, after I had got the usual suspects - the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Trevi Fountain, the Vatican etc - out of my system on a trip with my parents in 2005 (it’s not to say that these places shouldn’t be visited, of course).
My partner and I walked EVERYWHERE, and while this
was the best way to see the city, I did have to re-sole my new boots when I got
home. So wear comfy shoes!
MUSEUMS/ATTRACTIONS
Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth) at Santa Maria in Cosmedin
This large stone disc has become an ancient lie-detector of sorts, although it’s believed to have started life as a drain cover. It’s a perfect touristy photo opportunity and will require a euro or so donation.
Piazza Bocca della Verità – Via della Greca, 4
Between the Foro Romano and Aventine Hill
turismoroma.it
Aventine Hill
From
the Bocca della Verità, continue along Via di Santa Maria in Cosmedin until you
see a cobbled incline on your left (Clivo di Rocca Savella). Climb to the top
(just think of all the gelato-calories you’ll need to burn off) to discover the
peaceful streets around the Via Santa Sabina. The view from the Giardino degli
Aranci (orange garden) is stunning. At the Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, peek
through this brass keyhole for an even better view....
Pantheon
Some
experts say that the Pantheon is a mausoleum; others that it was built as a
temple for the ancient Gods. Either way, it’s a stunning feat of architecture.
Seeing either a gentle shaft of rainfall or the bright sunshine beaming through
the oculus is equally as beautiful an experience.
Piazza della Rotonda
Centro storico
Basilica di Santa Prassede
If
you’re in the vicinity of the Colosseum, it’s worth a ten-minute walk to this
unassuming little church. There is a tiny little funerary chapel just inside
the entrance which is almost entirely lined with delicate mosaics. The church’s
electricity is funded by donation so bring along a couple of euros to keep the
lights on.
Via di Santa Prassede, 9a
Esquilino – between Termini and Colosseum
Piazza Navona
A
romantic and elegant piazza that was originally built as a stadium for chariot
races. It is lined with pavement cafes and restaurants, and its centrepiece is
Bernini’s elegant, baroque-style fountain, the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumu
(Fountain of the Four Rivers). It’s beautiful as the sun sets on the
peachy-toned buildings.
Piazza Navona
Centro Storico – near Pantheon
Fontana dei Libri
The
‘Fountain of Books’ is a drinking fountain – one can drink from any fountain
marked SPQR, meaning Senatus Populusque Romanus. You’ll spot this inscription
all over the city.
Via Staderari
Between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon
Piazza di Spagna
Sit
on the scalinata (steps) that lead up from the piazza and savour your
gelato alla Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday.
Tridente neighbourhood
Campo de’ Fiori
A
compact and busy market-square that used to be a meadow (hence its name,
meaning ‘field of flowers’). We had a pleasant (but average) meal at one of the
restaurants circling the central square, which provided a good vantage point
for watching the hustle and bustle of market life. As we polished off our
pizza and gnocchi, we watched in awe as a grocer in front of us deftly trimmed
artichokes with such precision and speed, despite simultaneously having a
full-blown conversation with the florist two stalls down.
Centro Storico – near Pantheon and Piazza Navona
CAFES
Il Caffe de Sant'Eustachio
Coffee
is just not the same at home: the skill of the barista, the atmosphere of
drinking it at the counter and the din of caffeine-fuelled patrons all come
together to make the experience. Unfortunately I’m not a coffee fan, but my travel
companion assures me that Sant Eustachio’s coffee was rather fine. We
bought some packets for our cafetière at home and I kept sticking my head
inside our suitcase to inhale its delicious scent.
Piazza Sant’Eustachio, 81
Near Pantheon
Antico Caffè Greco
Although
the drinks here are quite highly priced (eight euros for a coffee, ten for a
hot chocolate!) it is a lovely place to have a languorous drink, and it’s worth
it to mingle with the spirits of Casanova, Byron and Keats.
Via dei Condotti, 86
Tridente – near Piazza di Spagna
A BITE TO EAT
Ristorante Giglio
The
neighbourhood around Termini doesn’t exactly have the romantic aesthetic of the
Eternal City that you might picture in your mind, but there are certainly some
nice places to eat if you look hard enough. We had a lovely meal at the Giglio
brothers’ restaurant: you can’t go wrong with tuna fillet, seafood linguine and
a bottle of Prosecco.
Via Torino, 137
Termini Repubblica
Antica Hostaria Piccolo Romano
Our
destination was Giolitti (see Gelato, below) but it started to rain and we
needed somewhere to eat - fast. We were thankful to find Piccolo Romano, with
its rustic interior and delicious menu of traditional Roman dishes. We chose
saltimbocca and roast piglet, with Romanesco broccoli and herbed roast
potatoes, all washed down with a half bottle of vino rosso. The whole
meal for two, including bread and water, came to a very reasonable €51.
Via Uffici del Vicario, 36
Near to Pantheon
GELATO
Gelateria del Teatro
Innovative
flavour combinations: our favourites were sage and raspberry and Vecchia Roma –
cheese and cherry.
Via di San Simone, 70 (also at Lungotevere dei Vallati, 25)
Centro Storico – near to Castel Sant’Angelo
Facebook: gelateriadelteatro
Yet
more delicious gelato. After an indulgent lunch at Piccolo Romano we opted to
try to some lighter, palate-cleansing Champagne and pink grapefruit gelato.
Via Uffici del Vicario 40
Near Pantheon
Ciampini
My
personal favourite, even on a full stomach of gelato consumed at the previously
recommended gelateria. Best by far was the fragoline, a variety of tiny
wild strawberry.
Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 29
Tridente - near Piazza di Spagna and Fontana di Trevi
You can read more in-depth scoop on gelato at:
THINGS TO BUY
Libreria del Viaggiatore
In
my dreams, I own little second-hand bookstore that specialises in tomes on
travel. Libreria del Viaggiatore is exactly what I have in mind: situated
on the beautiful via del Pellegrino and with walls lined from floor to ceiling
with all manner of travel novels, guides and maps. It seems to have relaxed
opening hours (right up my street) but arrive late afternoon and you’re likely
to find its doors open, inviting to you to come inside and find a literary gem.
Via del Pellegrino, 78
Centro Storico – near Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Navona
Cartoleria Pantheon
I
just can’t resist stationery shops, especially ones whose goods have been
handcrafted with such care. I’m kicking myself for not bringing home a slim tan
leather notebook embossed with Viaggi in gold for around €35, although I
did nab some buttery yellow sealing wax for €3.50.
Via della Rotonda, 15
Centro storico – near Pantheon
Supermarkets
Don’t
be lured by bags of multicoloured pasta sold at extortionate prices on the
Campo de’Fiori and gift shops all over the city. Instead, pop into a local
supermarket (we stopped by Elite near the Colosseum) and pick up some boxes of traditional
pasta shapes (like bucatini, linguine etc.) for under a euro.
Elite – via Cavour 232
Near Colosseum