A little over ten years ago, a friend introduced me to the film Amélie. I watched avidly, enchanted by the chartreuse-hazed scenes of Audrey Tautou’s capers around the City of Light. Throughout my teenage years I had never given a thought to this seemingly magical place, but all of a sudden I was obsessed.
Not long after that, in fact ten years ago to this day, my first boyfriend took me to Paris for a joint birthday and Valentine’s celebration. A lifelong love of the city was born.
Paris became the place that I dreamed about; day in, day out. After four more visits the obsession was really setting in so I started thinking about something longer than a mini-break. In September 2007 my plans came together: I rented a 13-square-metre apartment on the rue de la Verrerie for two magical months.
I spent my days exploring the city, sometimes sticking strictly to the itinerary I had spent so many months working on, but sometimes leaving it behind in the apartment and engaging in a spot of flânerie. I interned at Chic Shopping Paris, attended weird and wonderful shows at Paris Fashion Week, visited as many museums and galleries as I could, and ate more than my body weight in patisserie.
Every day I scribbled away in my journals about my adventures, gathered business cards and took hundreds of photographs (several years later my computer died and I lost all but a handful of precious snaps). Until now those memories have been gathering dust but now I would like to share them here.
As lovely as the Eiffel Tower et al. are, I have focussed on places that you might not read about in a typical guidebook. Some of my suggestions are based on my own discoveries, and a few were recommended by fellow Paris-lovers.
Recommendations are grouped by subject and, within this, by arrondissement (Paris has twenty arrondissements which span the city in a snail-like formation).
MUSEUMS
Musée Carnavalet ~ Museum of the history of Paris
I haven’t explored the full museum but the old Parisian shop sign section was enough to include it in these notes. My favourites were La Fourchette’s huge iron fork, and a man tucking into a plate of seafood with legs splayed under the table and a cheeky smile on his face for ‘Au Gourmand’, an early 19th century Palais Royal épicier.
Hôtel Carnavalet
23, rue de Sévigné 75003
Métro: Saint Paul, Chemin Vert
carnavalet.paris.fr
Muséum National D’Histoire Naturelle ~ Natural History Museum
This collection of museums is in a part of Paris that is (figuratively) miles away from the classic Haussmanian grands boulevards that are so synonymous with Paris. The quartier is a beautiful place to explore and steeped with knowledge and history.
The African Plain ‘stampede’ in the Grande Galerie d’Évolution would be equally as exciting to an adult as to a child and bone-lovers will find the collection of skeletons in the Galerie de Paléontologie fascinating. The 30m long, 150 tonne rorqual bleue (blue whale) is outstanding. Its mouth was bigger than my Parisian garret.
Jardin des Plantes
36, rue Geoffroy Saint Hilaire 75005
Métro: Austerlitz, Censier Daubenton, Jussieu
mnhn.fr
Musée des Lettres et Manuscrits ~ Museum of letters and manuscripts
A museum of correspondence, doodles, autographs and scribbles from historical characters including Isaac Newton, Freud, Pasteur, Napoleon, Marie Antoinette, Picasso and Cezanne to name but a few. I particularly liked the elaborate signatures of Danton and Charles IX, and this love note from François Coppé:
“Samedi: Je t’aime! Je te l’aime! Je te veux! Et je ne pensez qu’à toi depuis l’autre jour”
“Saturday: I love you! I love you! I want you! And since the other day I only think of you”
The gift shop sells reproductions of the letters, and all manner of accoutrements to write your own letters and manuscripts. Who knows: one day they might make it into this museum.
222, boulevard Saint-Germain 75007
Métro : Rue du Bac, Sèvres-Babylone, Saint-Germain des Prés
museedeslettres.fr
Musée de l'Éventail ~ Museum of fans
A beautiful collection of fans curated by Anne Hoguet, whose atelier is also in the building. Materials include ivory, bone, mother of pearl, sequins, gouache paintings on silk and flourishes of ostrich and marabou feathers.
2, boulevard de Strasbourg 75010
Métro: Strasbourg St Denis
annehoguet.fr
THINGS TO BUY
Perigot ~ design utilitaire
Various locations including:
Galerie Le Carrousel du Louvre
99, rue de Rivoli 75001
Métro: Musée du Louvre
perigot.fr
Ultramod ~ vente au detail
A 1940s mercerie (haberdasher) selling ribbons, buttons and notions. I bought a couple of metres of hot pink cord to tie my journals together.
3-4 Rue de Choiseul 75002
Metro: Quatre Septembre
Yukiko ~ vintage treasures
A little vintage boutique in the Marais that feels like stepping into a personal dressing room. It is adorned with pashminas, vintage Dior and Louis Vuitton luggage, strings of pearls and cabinets full of beautiful trinkets – a must for jewellery magpies.
97, rue Vieille du Temple 75003
Métro: Filles du Calvaires, Rambuteau
L’Écritoire ~ papeterie
A stationery lover’s paradise: sealing wax and stamps, envelopes and decorative labels, quills and inks in rainbow hues.
61, rue Saint Martin 75004
Métro: Châtelet
ecritoire.fr
Izrael ~ Épicerie du Monde
30 rue François-Miron 75004
Métro: Pont Marie
Librairie Ulysees ~ Pays et Voyages
A musty old travel bookshop in the heart of the romantic rue Saint Louis en l’Île. The vendeuse helped me find what I was looking for (books on Paris, naturally).
26, rue Saint Louis en L’Ile 75004
Métro:Pont Marie
Mariage Frères ~ Maison de Thé
A tea apothecary with hundreds of varieties of tea sold by the 100g or in beautiful tins or coffrets (caskets).
30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg 75004
Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville
mariagefreres.com
Diptyque ~ parfumeur parisien
I must admit that it was the typeface on these candles that first drew me in. Not being able to stalk the scents from afar, I had read up on the candles on the website, and was intrigued by exotic names like feu de bois.
My first visit to the boutique, with its maroon and lime facade, was such a memorable experience, and every time I sniff the pomander candle I bought, it takes me right back.
My favourite scents are: pomander, cannelle (cinnamon), opoponax and ambre (amber).
34 Boulevard St. Germain 75005
Métro: Maubert Mutualité
diptyqueparis.fr
Barthélemy ~ maître fromager
At the time I visited this shop I didn’t really like cheese. In fact, when the vendeuse asked if I needed any help I cobbled together a sentence which went along the lines of ‘I am absolutely not a connoisseur of cheese’.
She helped me choose a soft and creamy Coeur neufchat de vache, a cows cheese in the shape of a heart. It was still a bit too cheesy for my liking but nevertheless I devoured it with a Poilâne roll.
51, rue de Grenelle 75007
Métro: Varenne
Deyrolle ~ Cabinet des curiosités
An intriguing collection of taxidermy, from tiny bugs encased in picture frames to a little lamb curled up with a tiger for €790, or a smiley oryx at a mere €2200*.
*Prices from 2007
46 rue du Bac 75007
Métro: Rue du Bac
deyrolle.fr
Sennelier ~ Couleurs du Quai
Beautiful art supplies. The paint names are a delight: violet d’outremer and rouge vermillion de chène are so much more definitive than purple and red.
3, quai Voltaire 75007
Métro: Rue du Bac, Saint Germain des Près
magasinsennelier.com
Marché aux timbres ~ stamp market
I never would have placed myself as a philatelist but I loved this market. I bought handfuls of old stamps to decorate my journals for just a couple of euros.
Corner of avenues Gabriel and de Marigny 75008
Thursdays and weekends 10am-7pm
Hotel Drouot ~ ventes aux enchères
Check online for upcoming auctions; it’s certainly a place to see how the other half live. Depending on what day you visit you may bag yourself a painting, an ancient book or an impressive objet d’art.
12, rue Drouot 75009
Métro: Richlieu Drouot
drouot.com
Le 25 septembre 2007 14h15
“I’m writing wobbly because I’m stood at the back of the auction room and have nothing to lean on (I’ve also just had three glasses of red wine at Chartier). I have no idea what’s for sale.
...
Ahhh, it’s jewellery. A ring just went for €40, everything’s going pretty cheap at the moment. I love the way a couple has come out for the day with their hearts set on one particular item... and they won it! The man tears a cheque from his chequebook.
“Two hundred and eighty euros for an ugly pair of earrings,” remarks a Frenchman standing next to me.
...
There is a pair of skull earrings coming up. I point to the Frenchman’s catalogue and whisper: “Ils sont pour les ‘Hells Angels.”
He chuckles and replies: “Oui, avec un ‘Arley Davidson.”
They go for €2350.”
La Cocotte ~ librairie du gout
Hundreds of books on one of my favourite topics (food), and aprons, oven gloves and pink toile de Jouy teatowels stamped with a cartoon cockerel motif. Have a cup of tea and the signature snack: ‘biscocotti’. Rachel Khoo, of Little Paris Kitchen fame, is one of the original founders.
5 rue Paul Bert 75011
Métro: Faidherbe Chaligny
lacocotte.net
A BITE TO EAT
Crêperie Suzette ~ crêpes delicieux
Traditional crêpes and Breton galettes. I initially had a hard time accepting that crêpes should be smothered in anything else other than Nutella. Eventually I chose the Le Sevigne galette - chicken, cheese, basil and cream - and washed it down with sweet cider. It was delicious and my feelings towards savoury crepes have totally changed. Recommended by Rebecca from Chic Shopping Paris.
24 rue des Francs Bourgeois 75004
Métro: Saint Paul
Kiccho ~ sushi
Not typically French but Parisians do seem to love sushi bars. This one was dangerously close to my apartment and I familiarised myself quite well with the yakitori menu: miso soup, salad, sushi, brochettes, and a bowl of rice for under €15.
11 rue de la Verrerie 75004
Métro: Hotel de Ville
Le Verre Luisant ~ the looking glass
A lovely place to grab a glass of Côte du Rhones after an afternoon exploring the Pompidou. Delicious classic French dishes like poulet rôti avec du champignons and charlotte au chocolat , and the best menu design I’ve seen (the owners let me bring one home). Recommended by Claire from Lola is Beauty.
64, rue de la Verrerie 75004
Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville
Chartier ~ bouillon
Beautiful bouillon (canteen-style restaurant) with traditional French dishes such as escargots, rôti du porc gratin and mousse au chocolat. The prices are great and the atmosphere even better. The waiter will scribble your order on the paper tablecloth.
7, rue du faubourg Montmartre 75009
Métro: Grands Boulevards
bouillon-chartier.com
SWEET THINGS
Stohrer ~ Pâtissier Traiteur
Delicious sweet and savoury treats from Marie Antoinette’s personal baker, no less. I couldn’t resist the chocolate tarts...
51, rue Montorgeuil 75002
Métro: Les Halles
stohrer.fr
le 23 septembre 2007, 13h14, en face de l’Eglise Saint Eustache
“Tarte au chocolate report
First impressions – a shallow case of thin, fine pastry with a lovely golden colour, filled with a perfectly smooth and glossy chocolate centre and garnished with a dash of gold leaf.
First bite – Ooh la la: the pastry is rich, but just enough. The glossy chocolate top reveals a richer ganache beneath. Is it de rigeur to eat a Stohrer pastry outdoors without a fork and serviette? Who cares, this is heaven.
The aftermath – A tiny bit of ganache has escaped onto my finger and it is so rich that it has stained my skin.”
Berthillon ~ Glacier
31, rue Saint Louis en L’Île 75004
Métro: Pont Marie
berthillon.fr
La Charlotte de l’Isle ~ salon de thé
Delicious, thick hot chocolate that feels like it has magic ingredients in it...
24 rue St. Louis en L’Ile 75004
Métro: Pont Marie
lacharlottedelisle.fr
Heurtrier ~ Bistrot à Pains
Lovely sweets and pastries, and the butteriest croissants. Recommended by Claire from Lola is Beauty.
2, rue de la Verrerie 75004
Métro: Hôtel de Ville
Le Loir dans la Théière ~ salon de thé
3, rue des Rosiers 75004
Métro: Saint Paul
Le 21 septembre 2007, environs 17h00
“...I’m having the most humongous slice of lemon meringue pie. The ratio of lemon to meringue is pleasantly distorted towards the latter – Lord knows how many calories are contained within this magnificent mound of meringueyness. I wonder if I’ll be able to do anything post sugar fest? I can already feel my arteries starting to quake.”
Some time later...
“With approximately a third of the pie left, I admit defeat.”
Ladurée – sweet treats
In 2007, the macaron movement hadn’t quite reached Britain. My only prospect of macaron contact was a 521.5 mile trip to Paris. So obviously when I went, I gorged on macarons: chocolat, framboise, pistache, citron and pain d’epices (which tasted like my pomander candle*).
*in a good way
Various locations – my favourite at:
21 rue Bonaparte 75006
Métro:
laduree.fr
CAFÉS
“Cafés form one of the specialities of Paris, and some of them should be visited by the stranger who desires to see Parisian life in all its phases.” Baedeker’s Paris and its Environs (1878)
Café de Flore ~ literary cafe
172, boulevard Saint-Germain 75006
Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
cafedeflore.fr
...Around the corner you can buy Café de Flore house crockery to recreate your hot chocolate experience at home.
26, rue Saint-Benoît 75006
Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
cafe-de-flore.com
Le Select ~ grand café
A classic Parisian cafe where time seems to slow down.
99, boulevard du Montparnasse 75006
Metro: Vavin
Le 18 octobre 2007, 17h20
“The house cat has come to sit next to my table – he is huge! The menu tells me that his name is Mickey.”
A couple of Kirs later...
18h40
“A West Highland terrier is on alert for Mickey, who clearly rules the roost here, the smells of food float in and out of the kitchen, a man taps away on his laptop, another man carefully turns the pages of Le Monde, tearing out articles here and there. Mickey lies prostrate on the bar, lapping his dark chocolate and taupe tortoiseshell coat.
Two men at the bar sip bières blondes and a pair of women with beautiful spectacles have an animated conversation.
Mickey shifts a little, getting even more comfy. The Westie’s ears prick up and his little nose twitches...”
APERITIFS
Le Café Marly
Overlooking the grounds of the Musée du Louvre, this is a beautiful place to grab an aperitif at l’heure bleue (the blue hour of dusk).
Palais du Louvre
93, rue de Rivoli 75001
Métro: Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre
maisonthierrycostes.com/cafe-marly/accueil
Experimental Cocktail Club
Cosy cocktail bar with exposed brick walls, plush velvet curtains and delicious cocktails like the Lemon Drop and Strawberry Alarm Clock.
37, rue Saint-Sauveur 75002
Métro: Réaumur-Sébastopol
experimentalcocktailclub.com
Le Crocodile
Hundreds of cocktails to choose from – I tried the mirage (champagne, lychee syrup and grenadine) and the accroche-coeur (champagne and Goldschlager).Cocktails are €9.
6 Rue Royer Collard 75005
Métro: Luxembourg
PLACES TO EXPLORE
Rue Furstenburg – This gorgeous secluded square with huge pawlonia empress trees features in one of my favourite Paris movies, L’Appartemment.
Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Promenade Plantée – A tree-lined walkway spanning three miles of the disused Vincennes railway line. You’ll recognise it from Before Sunset.
Métro: Bastille, Daumesnil, Bel-Air
Hôtel Raoul - A beautiful decrepit doorway from an old hotel particulier on the rue Beautreillis. Jim Morrison died at number 17.
Métro: Saint Paul, Bastille
Rue Chanoinesse – A pretty street on the île de la Cité. Although it’s just around the corner, it feels a million miles away from the throng of tourists gawping at the Notre Dame.
Métro: Cité
Eglise Saint Paul – On my way to my petit boulot in the Bastille quartier I would walk past this stunning Baroque Jesuit church on the rue Saint Antoine, or it would peek at me from the rue de Sevigné. The huge peeling aubergine doors are beautiful.
Métro: Saint Paul
Opéra Garnier – Les Dimanches Musicaux are well worth €20 a ticket. The Cras-Jolivet-Debussy-Ravel concert was one of the most beautiful nights of my life. The extravagant interior of the palace is stunning, and the colourful Chagall ceiling is simply magical.
Palais Opéra Garnier
Place de l’Opéra 75009
Métro: Opéra, Chausée d’Anfin Lafayette