ROME: ON FILM

LOOKING OUT ACROSS Rome from the Giardino degli Aranci, a carefully-tended orange garden at the top of the Aventine Hill, the sun casts a faded, hazy film over the landscape. Its shades and tones are muted, creating the illusion that instead of admiring the undulating terrain of the Eternal City, you’re looking at a beautiful - yet threadbare - stage mural. It’s fitting too, because even up close Rome is like one big theatre set.

A stroll from piazza to piazza may uncover an unexpected stage ‘prop’: a remnant of an ancient marble column here, an ornate fountain there. And the colours of the buildings on winding cobbled streets provide the perfect mise en scène: warm oranges, yellows and every shade of pink from cherry blossom to dusky rose.

NYC I: UPPER WEST SIDE & UPPER EAST SIDE


NEW YORK CITY had always been on my travel wish-list, but with years of being preoccupied with various European cities I'd never really made any firm plans to go there in the foreseeable future. Instead I admired it from afar, watching endless movies set in the city: Breakfast at Tiffany's, Home Alone 2, Rear Window - which doesn't really count since it was filmed on a set, but hey ho - to name but a few (the list is endless*).

It was coming up to my 30th and I was all ready to 'just have a quiet one' but ended up being 'persuaded' into spending it in the Big Apple. From the get go my eyes were sparkling and there was a a New York soundtrack whirring away in my mind**. Everything was big and bold: the skyscrapers, the store fronts, the thick New Ywork accents and the portions of food.

POSTCARD FROM MAY 4TH 2014: BOLTON CASTLE

... where I got engaged (literally right after I took this photograph!) after a walk looping from the castle to Aysgarth Falls and back.


Happy engagement anniversary, M!

JUST BACK FROM... YORK


5TH MAY 2015

Before I get around to posting my guide to New York, here are some photographs from regular York, where I recently spent a night away to celebrate the one year anniversary of my aforementioned engagement.


LONDON: DIPPY, AND SOME RESTAURANTS



On a recent whistle-stop trip to The Natural History Museum (primarily to see Dippy - above) I was just as enamoured with the mosaiced floors as I was the exhibitions...


LONDON: SPRING 2015

Parma violet or candy floss? Pretty pastel houses on Bywater Street...

...magnolia + shuttered white houses...

...myriad teas at Fortnum & Mason...


...a beautiful sycamore skeleton...


...hot pink camellias in bloom...


...a new (old) book about 1950s London...

...the blue-grey roof of the Methodist Centre...

  ...another view of  Bywater Street...

...dreamy books at Taschen...
...smile-inducing street names...
...Westminster Abbey at sunset...

...an elegant doorway...
...the Natural History Museum (I must visit Dippy before he goes on his merry way)...
...and the Palace of Westminster on a sunny lunchtime.

BRUGES


This guide to Bruges has been a long time coming! I visited in 2011 - before I started Travel Notes - but was already in the mindset of taking hundreds of photographs and noting down things to do, eat, and see.

I wrote an article for my local newspaper about how, when I first arrived, Bruges didn't meet my expectations of a chocolate box city. This was entirely based on the rather 70s-ish concrete building where the coach dropped us off, and once we started walking further into the city, I started to feel like we were going back in time.

LONDON: BOOKS & FOOD

Two of my favourite activities are reading and eating, so I'm very easily excited by a bookshop and a good restaurant! Here are some that I've come across in London.


READING

Assouline (photo above)

My first visit to this French publishing house was in Paris, where my eyes were on stalks at the gorgeous, glossy coffee table tomes on fashion, lifestyle and travel. Last year Maison Assouline opened a UK branch on Piccaddilly; this time, my eyes were on 'The Spirit of Monte Carlo' and 'French Riviera: Living well was the best revenge'.

196a Piccadilly
W1J 9EY



Stanfords

The picture above does not do justice to the immense collection of travel books, magazines, maps and prints in this wonderful bookstore. The books are grouped by destination, and we're not just talking a measly shelf for each one - I could easily spend a whole day here. I bought a copy of Afar Magazine and a pop-up book on London.

12-14 Long Acre
Nr. Covent Garden, WC2E 9LP



EATING

Nopi

I have to admit, I visited Nopi because a) I'd seen an Instagram of the huge mound of fresh salads, b) it's in a handy location for shopping on Regent Street and c) I always think that Yottam Ottolenghi comes across a lovely guy in interviews and on TV.

I had lamb cutlets with sorrel pesto and vanilla chicory with roasted butternut squash, cardamom yoghurt and roasted pecans - I would never have thought to put these items together in one dish but all of the flavours complemented each other well. For dessert I had rhubarb Eton mess which didn't have the wow factor of the main, but was nevertheless a good way to round off a lovely meal.

The interior of the restaurant is also gorgeous - as above, the bathrooms are pretty amazing, if a little confusing when trying to exit!

21-22 Warwick Street
Soho W1B 5NE
nopi-restaurant.com



Polpo

So... Polpo has been open for several years now and I'm late to the party, but since I went to Venice and had some of the best meals of my life I am pretty enamoured with the concept of cicheti. I started with an Aperol spritz which was right on the mark (though I prefer how they come in Venice: in a large wine glass). I had crab arancini to start and liguini vongole for mains, followed by the flourless chocolate and hazelnut cake for dessert. That sounds like a lot of food, but the portions aren't gigantic and it was just the right amount of food to be able to continue shopping afterwards without falling asleep.

There are now other Polpos across London but Beak Street is the original, and you can read the story of how Polpo started at this location in the brilliant Polpo cookbook.

41 Beak Street
Soho, W1F 9SB
polpo.co.uk



Aubaine

Late last summer I had a very lovely meal at Aubaine: a chilled glass of Rose, squid, lime aioli and coriander to start, then the fish of the day - rainbow trout - with samphire. For dessert, the waiter brought over a trolley of treats and explained what each pretty little piece of patisserie was - I chose a passion fruit tart.

The meal was made even better by perfect service. It's not always fun as a solo diner, but I got just the right level of attention, and instead of being seated in a corner by the bathrooms I got a prime seat in front of the terrace.

260-262 Brompton Road
Brompton Cross, SW3 2AS
aubaine.co.uk

Click here to read my other London posts - and please let me know if you have any other good bookshop or restaurant recommendations up your sleeve!

JUST BACK FROM... NEW YORK

I still can't get over this view...

New York city guide coming to Travel Notes soon!

BARCELONA: MAY 2011


Of all the cities I’ve written about for Travel Notes so far, it would be pretty hard for me to choose a favourite. I love the elegance of Paris, the peacefulness of Amsterdam, the in-your-face history of Rome, the sheer beauty of Venice and the classic British pomp and ceremony of London.

All of these places make me happy but there is one place that makes me really happy, and that’s Barcelona.

NEW YEAR, NEW YORK...


I'm off to the Big Apple in February and I couldn't be more excited! I'm just about finished my pre-trip research, and a snapshot of my to-do list is:

Ice skating in Central Park, cocktails at a rooftop bar, top of the Rock/Empire State Building, lazy brunches and see the twinkling lights of Manhattan from the Staten Island Ferry.
  
I've been going pin crazy - here's my inspiration board:



I've been reading lots of books about New York, and these are my favourites:

Select New York - Insight Guides

This is New York, Miroslav Sasek

City Secrets: New York - Edited by Robert Kahn

I'm hoping these maps will come in handy:



(l-r)

How to find old New York - Herb Lester

New York Burger map - All-You-Can-Eat Press

A Manhattan bar for all reasons - Herb Lester


What do you recommend for a classic NY experience?


BUON NATALE


Nine Christmases ago, my family went to Rome for a pre-festive trip. I recently saw on Facebook that a friend was doing the same thing, and it brought back lots of memories of how wonderful Rome is in December: the piercing winter light, the huge tree outside the Basilica di San Pietro (see photo above, in the days before I thought about photo composition: we wondered what all the fuss was about - when we got home we realised we'd missed the Pope by about 30 minutes...), luxury treats in the windows of the boutiques on via Condotti and smartly dressed men in wool coats dashing to collect panettones for a Christmas spread.

So, in the spirit of these memories, buon natale to my readers: I hope you all have a very lovely Christmas. Vediamo nel nuovo anno! xxx

DARLINGTON

Darlington (my hometown!) is home to lots of lovely independent places to shop, eat and drink - here's a little guide to some of my favourites. This piece was originally published in the November/December 2014 issue of Paperbird magazine (you can see the clip here)


Clervaux Artisan Bakery (photo above)
A bakery and cafe which prides itself on using organic produce home-grown at nearby Clow Beck Farm. The cafe is a lovely airy space and a great spot for a slow Saturday breakfast with the papers. I love their black pudding loaf!

38 Coniscliffe Road, Darlington DL3 7RG
clervaux.org.uk


Houndgate Townhouse
This hotel with restaurant and bar has a gorgeous interior. It's a perfect place at any time of day: try the eggs benedict for breakfast, escape mid-shopping for a spot of stylish afternoon tea, or have a tipple at cocktail hour.

11 Houndgate, Darlington DL1 5RF


Robineau Patisserie
Superb chocolates, fantastical celebration cakes and delicious patisserie - their eclairs and macarons are to die for. There is a also a cafe with brasserie-style menu - it's like a little bit of France in the North East!

27 West Auckland Road, Darlington DL3 9EL



Delicious Mexican food (the best Latin food in the UK outside of London according to industry professionals) and great value. They do a mean dish of nachos with all the toppings, and the burritos and quesadillas are highly recommended.

84 Skinnergate, Darlington, DL3 7LX


 The Cheese and Wine Shop
A recent discovery, this tiny shop tucked up one of Darlington's historic yards is a cheese lover's paradise. There are also specialty ales, chutneys, champagnes and lots of other foodies treats which would make a lovely bespoke hamper.

8 Clarks Yard, Darlington DL3 7QH
cheeseandwineshop.co.uk


Eliza Blooms

Truly beautiful blooms, from the stunning flowers to the perfect blush pink paper wrapping, this florist stands out from the rest. Their ready-made wee bunches would make a lovely gift. Check out the website for details of seasonal floristry classes.

19 Duke Street, Darlington DL3 7RX

PARIS IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA

Still feeling the Paris love here at Travel Notes HQ! For more Parisian goodness you can read about...
...my experiences as an Englishwoman in Paris for The Northern Echo here, here and here...
... favourite shops, cocktail bars, restaurants and hotels for La Di Da magazine and...
my Paris posts for this blog - without Paris there would be no Travel Notes!

"Paris is always a good idea"
Audrey Hepburn

PARIS: MY 'HITOTOKI'


As I alluded to in my first post this week, my time in Paris wasn't all a whirlwind of patisserie and prancing around famous monuments...

PARIS: SEVEN YEARS AGO TODAY



On this day seven years ago I was about to go on a wonderful adventure...

LONDON: HOUSE OF ILLUSTRATION, JULY 2014

Earlier this summer I managed to squeeze in a visit to the House of Illustration to see the Quentin Blake: Inside Stories exhibition on one of my fleeting visits to London. The gallery is situated in Granary Wharf behind Kings Cross , so it's perfectly located if you have an hour or so to spare before your train departs.

Quentin Blake is my favourite illustrator: just looking at his work lifts my mood, and he has the best handwriting I've ever seen. For this exhibition, Blake carefully selected seven stories and poems that he has illustrated, and I'm so pleased that he chose The Twits as part of the line-up, as this was - and still is - one of my favourite stories.

 
"If a person has ugly thoughts, it begins to show on the face. And when that person has ugly thoughts every day, every week, every year, the face gets uglier and uglier until it gets so ugly you can hardly bear to look at it." 
"A person who has good thoughts cannot ever be ugly. You can have a wonky nose and a crooked mouth and a double chin and stick-out teeth, but if you have good thoughts they will shine out of your face like sunbeams and you will always look lovely."
'The Twits' by Roald Dahl (1980)

The exhibition runs until 2nd November 2014.

NORTH YORK MOORS: JULY 2014 - PART III

HUTTON-LE-HOLE
The final day of our North York Moors road-trip started off at Hutton-le-Hole (read the first instalment here, and the second here).

LONDON: SUMMER 2014

Here are some lovely things I've seen/done/eaten in London this summer! (from left to right):


...wanted to sit on a deckchair in the park...

... tucked into a perfect red velvet CocoDough and jasmine tea at Cocomaya on Pavilion Road...

... slurped on a passion fruit margherita at Wahaca...

...bought my nephew a present from the Moomin shop...

... cooed over the tea packaging at Fortnum & Mason...
...was forever in love with everything at Liberty...

... had a perfect French-ified dinner at Aubaine...

 ... and saw the loveliest of exhibitions at the House of Illustration.

NORTH YORK MOORS: JULY 2014 - PART II

ROBIN HOOD'S BAY
The next part of our road-trip around the North York Moors began at Robin Hood's Bay, a quaint little smugglers cove between Whitby and Scarborough. I loved the rickety little fisherman's cottages hidden up secret alleys and the fact that, as well as having a beach perfect for exploring rock pools and hunting for fossils, it was quite green, with lots of trees, ferns and wildflowers. It's such an atmospheric place, and I think it would be even better on a stormy, blustery night, with the sea lapping at the slipway and the (imaginary) threat of pirates.